Remembering my Ramadan days in Mideast
by
Javed Hafiz |
Reminiscences
The Holy Month of Ramadan has special significance in the Islamic calendar. It is a month of spiritual redemption, of sharing and caring. In Pakistan, Ramadan is a rather serious affair. People focus on their prayers, fasting and giving alms. The Holy Quran is recited in 25-26 sessions of Taraveeh prayers. The 27th of Ramadan and the nights coinciding with odd-number dates around it have special importance as Lailatul Qader, a night better than a thousand months, falls in one of those dates. During one of the last Taraveeh prayers, the Holy Quran is recited in one night and this is called Shabeena. Eid festivities, which last for three days, are quite lively and colourful in Pakistan. All kind of foods, desserts in particular, are served to the guests. Decoration of shops has already started to attract customers.
But I have always enjoyed the month of Ramadan more in the Arab world. The entire month is festive. Families visit each other more often during this month. Markets remain open till late in the evening, often past mid-night. Many items are put on special sale. The affluent give a lot of charity to the not-so-privileged. Television channels run special programmes on Islamic history. Special comedy serials are also telecast. Restaurants and coffee shops are full in the evening. In Cairo, the fabled Khan Khalili bazar bustles with activity till early morning hours. In Saudi Arabia, families go out and camp by the roadside taking with them the food, coffee flasks and televisions. Children play around while parents sip coffee and watch television. Mosques are full of people. Umrah performers flock to Makkah, particularly in the latter half of the Ramadan. In the Holy Harem many people bring food along at Maghreb prayers and insist that others share it with them. Thanks to the modern technology, we can view or listen to the Taraveeh prayers from the Holy Haram anywhere now.
For me, the three Ramadans spent in Muscat were a unique experience. Omanis are a caring society and the less privileged sections of society get special attention from the Sultanate’s government as well as the philanthropists. The Pakistani community in Muscat is very keen on Iftar parties, always followed by dinners. Other communities were not far behind. I still remember a large Iftar party at the Indian School Ghubra last year. When I was not invited for an Iftar party, and that was rare, I would go to the nearby Sarooj mosque for Maghreb prayers. A hall annexed to the mosque has kitchen and dining facilities. People from all sections of society gather at the mosque for Iftar. Food is sponsored by the Sultanate’s government. It is supplemented by the dishes sent by some affluent neighbours. This month brings people closer to each other. Many important people came to the Sarooj mosque for prayers, particularly on Fridays. All of them were distinguished by their humility and down-to-earth attitudes. Asma Bint Alawi was another mosque in Elaam that I liked for its beautiful design. The Grand Mosque is captivating as it combines in one building the best of Islamic architecture. Quite late in my tenure, a friend advised me to go to Abu Baker Siddiq mosque in Wattayah. The Khateeb, an Egyptian senior in age, spoke extempore in beautiful pure Arabic.
In my second year, I discovered the Ramadan Tennis Tournament at the Inter-Continental. It would start after Isha prayers and continue late into the night. It was very well organised by my friends, Dr Hamed Al Rayami and Abdul Majeed Asfoor. Regular players included HE Dr Yahya Bin Mahfoudh Al Mantheri, Chairman of State Council, HE Sayyid Badr Bin Saud Bin Harib Al Busaidi, Minister Responsible for Defence Affairs and HE Ahmed Bin Hassan Al Dheeb, Undersecretary at the Ministry of Commerce and Industry.
The latter two were very strong players and one hated to play against them! I could not go very far into the tournament in the first year. However, by the second year, I had learnt the trick of selecting a strong player as my doubles’ partner. So thanks to my partner, Sajid Kabeer, we managed to get the runner-up prize in doubles. Apart from the game, the ambience and social atmosphere off the courts was very enjoyable.
Every Eid, I visited my neighbour Sayyid Badr. His large Majlis was always full of visitors. He made it a point to talk to each guest. Coffee was continuously served and no one felt ignored. Sayyid Badr, true to Omani courtesy and manners, would invariably come to the door to see me off.
The beauty of Omani society lies in its voluntary discipline, good manners, respect for guests and elders. With their long sea-faring background, the Omanis feel at ease with the foreigners. Indeed in Oman, I never felt like a foreigner. And Ramadan in Oman was different as I could redeem myself spiritually and improve my physical fitness at the same time. It was a great time for exchanging food, gifts and renewing friendships.
The writer Javed Hafiz is a former ambassador of Pakistan to the Sultanate.
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